Bouldering in Engelberg

      
      -- last change, 30th of aug 2012, albert barti wuersch (friedbikins AT gmail.com) (c) 2003 - 2012

        
       Summer 2011: Rene Schweizer and Raphi Bachmann developped 50 new lines 
       in the forgotten sector 'Halfpipe'. It's about 15 min up the hill from 
       sector Fuchsstein and includes 5 blocs. Topo Sector Halfpipe 


      Welcome to the boulder guide to the blocs in the valley of Engelberg in Central
      Switzerland. See bottom of the page on how to get there.
      
      It is a small area with about 170 lines on more than 15 blocs. The first Bloc is right
      above the parking. It has some of the best lines of the area. For the other blocs you have to 
      walk 20 - 40 min on easy trails surrounded by glacier and mountain rivers scenery.
      
      The difficulties of the lines are between 4a and 8b and some projects of course. 
      But most of the lines are between 5c and 7a

      Best season is from october till december. Then it gets sticky as hell. Spring is sometimes
      not too bad but maybe you have to dodge some avalanches. Summer is good on overcast days.
      Most problems face the sun. 

      I gonna give you a little tour on the spot, so you get an impression what the climbing
      looks like and which are in my view the best lines.
      
      At the end you'll find a MAP with an overview of all the blocs, some thoughts about
      the grading and some links contact info.      
      
      
           
     Impression of sector 'Fuchsstein' 
     + beta for the line 'el salto'
                 

      Al-Berto & the Fried Bikinis

BRUENDLER

      This bloc is right above the parking. You can spend easy the whole afternoon there.
      The Bloc at Bruendler has the first ever developped boulder in Engelberg. It was in spring
      2003 when I called Simon Wandeler to check out this bloc. We spent 5 hours until we
      figured out the moves to the most obvious line on this bloc. We thought it was going
      to be a 6a and felt like loosers ... Looser Line was born. 

BRUENDLER BLOC 

Character: Limestone, small crimps

Number:    6 Lines
Exposion:  Never Sun

Best:      Kiana        8a+
           Get Down     7c+ 

Walk:	   3 min from the car parking

Pics:      U L: Domi action in looser line
	   U R: Chris on the swing of kiana 
           D L: Dave ready to fly on kiana


	************* Bruendler   *****************************************************

	Alpaeroesli               	 6a+    The obvious arete from left to right. Slopers on
						limestone to big holds 
	Maenteli                  	 6a     excellent mantle if you don't use the crimps
						only the slopers
	Montags Maler             	 7b+ 	sit start like Maenteli, then 5 middle hard moves 
	                                        going slightly to the right and up before the jump 
						to pocket, a bit contrived since the logical line is 
						Maenteli and then Alpaeroesli.
						check out video below.
	Looser Line               	 7c 	find out where to place your butt. this is a classic
                                                rhythm boulder, once you find it, its not too hard. 
                                                FA Simon Wandeler 
	Get Down                  	 7c+  	deep start to Looser Line. 3 more moves, but you get
						better into rhythm.
        Vivai	                         Proj   Sitstart on Get Down then to the right and topout
						into crux of Kiana.	
	Kiana     	        	 8a+	smaller crimps and longer moves than looser line. 
						First it seems impossible, then it seems close,
						then so impossible again :)
                                                FA Dave Gisler
        Kiana (Stand)                    7b-8a  Kind of ungradable. Very technical and powerful 1 mover. 
						Tiny holds, to a not really ok hold (for me) ... sometimes
						it feels impossible and then it feels easy again.
						FA Dave Gisler 
        Sisters Line			 8a     Morpho! Sit Start on Kiana and then go left into
                                                Loosers line
                                                FA Dave Gisler
	Killer Kante              	 6b+/c  Sooo friction dependent. There is a long traverse 
						from way down, too. 
	Low Traverse            	 Proj   I have no clue how 

        	
Beta for the contrived line Montags Maler:
But hey, do it just the way that is most fun!    
 Beta for Looser Line
AGENT ORANGE SECTOR

      We always knew there were blocs in the woods on the other side of the river, but no-one 
      had the courage to go and conquer them. Dave Gisler finally did what had to be done.
      3 fresh blocs with over 10 lines all close together are ready for a great warm up and
      burn out. From the Bruendler parking walk to the Corner block and cross the bridge
      to the right. Then turn right again and go over the next bridge and go down the
      trail to the point where the barbed wire ends (on the right side of the trail) and
      go there into the forest (about 30-40m) and you'll find the Agent Orange block.

      If you a bit further towards the River, you'll find the 'Hoher Zwerg' a big 
      block with no real line but tousands of combinations ... excellent to get
      start the day. 

      And if you walk a bit further down the river, you'll find two excellent lines
      mitake and mifune!

AGENT ORANGE SECTOR 

Character: Gneiss

Number:    10+  Lines
Exposion:  in the forest 

Best:      Agent Orange 7b+

Walk:	   10 min from the car parking

Pics:      U L: Tabea checking 'Mooslos' 
	   U R: Hoher Zwerg front 
           D L: Mitake and Mifune


	************* Agent Orange   *****************************************************

	Orange Mantle (a)              	 6c     Mantle straight up 
	Agent Orange  (b)                7b+    short intensive traverse with a hard crux move
 						FA Dave Gisler
        DDT	      (c)		 7a     low start on big hold and straight up
        Mooslos	      (d)		 7a+    same start and go to the right

        ************* Hoher Zwerg     ****************************************************
       
        a lot of lines around 7a and some hard projects, too. 
        Have fun like a first ascender and create your own lines :)

	
        ************* Mitake & Mifune     ****************************************************
        Mitake                          7a+      technical on small river washed crimps
        Mifune                          6c+      the arete, excellent climb, too

CORNER BLOC


This was a late discovery. In summer it's a bit dense to get there. It is not far
from the Bruendler Bloc. From the parking you can walk up 500m the path until you see
on your right side a bridge. On the first pic you see the bridge and path in the
background of the corner block. During all summer it's in the bush and too hot. 
November / March it's the best to boulder on it. 
      CORNER BLOC 
    
      Character: Gneiss, Funky Vertical 
      
      Number:    10 Lines
      Exposion:  No sun in the bush
      
      Best:      all 
      
      Pics: 
	  U L: block and bridge 
      	  U R: just 4 the colour 
          D L: when u look south 
		     

	****** Corner Block  *************************************************************
	Alles ist erlaubt              	 5c 
	With		               	 6b  	If you use the Block of 'alles ist erlaubt'
	or without you                 	 6c  	without the block
	Tango				 5c	dance left, right, left, right :)
	Umarm mich			 5c     hug is the trick
	Schnabel Kraft			 6b	pinch it hard
	Surprise			 6a	surprisingly easy with the beta
	the mess we're in		 6b	watch the rock, the tree and the lykon.	
	sandflies			 7a	find your way with both corners	
	proj				 ?




FUCHS STEIN

The Fuchs Stein is on the other end of the area. It is just the biggest block
you can see from the restaurant Staefeli. 'Ehrlich Lump' is the first line
done on this block. It is a looong line, starting on almost roof climbing and
ending on slopey crimps. Rene and Tabea found an easy end to it (cause they
are smarter), so it's named der gschiid lump. I still prefer my more difficult 
and now obviously contrived way :)
On 'Lieblingslaster Eitelkeit' i needed 4 months to find a beta to it. 
I was several times told that there is no line there, but it
turned out to be one of the most beautiful lines with the funkiest beta. 

In 2006 David Noden put up Effervescent Elephant which was 8a when he did it. But
when i tried it i cleand the lycon and moss away cause i just could not hold
this stuff. It is somehow easier now ... probably 7b+ or so ... It makes
a huge difference when you brush very very slopey mossy slopers :)
In 2010 Rene Schweizer brought back the endurance to bouldering and put up a couple
of pumpy lines to fuchsstein. 
In 2012 Adam Ondra payed a visit to the Fuchsstein and showed me that all moves
are possible on some projects. Now we have it all on one bloc :)

      FUCHS STEIN BOULDER 
    
      Character: Gneiss, slopey and crimpy
      
      Number:    15 climbed Lines, 3 projects
      Exposion:  all expositions
      
      Best:      E. Elephant    7b+ 
                 Eitelkeit      7c+
      	         Gschiid Lump   7a+
                 Ride the tide  7c
		 Fox chase      6b+
      
      
      Pics: 
	  Up L:   Domi on the ehrlich Lump 
      	  Up R:   Fred flashing Eitelkeit 
          Down L: Chris kicks ass in Eitelkeit 
		     

	****** Fuchsstein ****************************************************************************

	Effervescent Elephant      	 7b+       Start big hold, crimp left and big move to slopers  
					           FA by David Noden from Wales
	Project				 Proj      8b/c Start on Eitelkeit and end on Effervescent Elephant 
	Eitelkeit geht weiter		 7a        Start where Eitelkeit ends. Big move to slopey arete
					           and bring your feet around that arete
	(1) Lieblingslaster Eitelkeit 	 7c/+      Classic! Start lying down underneath the prow. 
					           the heels are going to heal your soul
	(2a) Cows in the Bikinis	 8a        Start ehrlich lump, go left around the prow into the
						   last moves of Eitelkeit. FA by Adam Ondra
	(2) Project		  	 Proj      8b/c  Start ehrlich lump, go left and up 
	(3) Naked in the Rain         	 7c+       Start ehrlich lump, go straight up to big hold 
	                                           for both hands (High Ball)
        Naked in the Brain               Proj      Top out after 'Naked in the Rain' (Solo)
        (4a) Der nackte Lump		 7a+       start like ehrlich Lump and end on naked in the Rain 
	(4) Der ehrlich Lump          	 7b+       Steep 6c to 7a+ slab. So it is more a short
					           route (~ 14 moves) than a boulder. Since there is
                                                   now an easier way to the left (Der gschiid Lump), 
                                                   this line has become 'contrived'. But hey, it is
                                                   still the nicer line :)
        (4b) Der gschiid Lump		 7a+       FA Stefan Lustenberger. Same as ehrlich Lump, but 
                                                   avoid the crux move on the bad slopers and take a 
        (4c) Ride the Tide		 7c        FA by Rene Schweizer. Start on ehrlich Lump and
                                                   start to traverse when you reach the sloper. The
                                                   whole thing ends up on the highball 'easy ticks'
                                                   40 moves! It is the only line that has a sit start
                                                   sharp crimp up left (Rene and Tabeas way)
	(5) Zwischen Lump und Held    	 Proj      Yet another playground ... 
	(6) Der falsch Held           	 7b+       Crimpy shit, same finish as 'ehrlich lump'
	(7) Chipp n Tales	      	 7b        Another crimpy shit with a nice mantle to finish
                                                  and a real top out.
        (8) Easy Ticks			 6c        FA by Sebi Huber, super nice Highball and the 
                                                   first line that tops out the fuchsstein :)
        (8a) Easy Ticks for easy chicks  Proj      Sit start to easy ticks
        (9) Foxy Lady			 7a        work up you way through the slopey groove. another
                                                   topout on the fuchsstein
        (10) Lucky Looser		 6a        right of the easiest way to the top of the fuchsstein
 						   excellent dyno!!!
        (11) Fox chase                   6b+       trav from Soultaker to the left to the beginning of
                                                   lucky looser
        (12) Soulmate			 7a+       Shouldery first move on right crimp, then campus board
                                                   fest!
        (13) Seelenwaermer		 7a+       Soultaker but no eliminates, follow the big holds to
						   the end of Soultaker. Last move with the right hand to the upper
						   right hold is the crux.
        (14) Soultaker                   Proj      8a/b Hard first move to big hold and then keep low.        
                                                   Before the hold broke it was a 7c by Rene Schweizer Now
                                                   way harder ...
	(15) Soultaker Stand		 7b+       Start with 2 crimps. Your right deltoid muscle will be
						   very sore the next day :). Finish with right hand on upper
						   right jug that is marked with a little man. left hand on the left
						   little dude on the big sloper.
        (16)  Soulmaker			 7a        Just the hard first move of Soultaker and then top out
                                                   as soon as you can. Variation: start both hands on the
						   right hold (7a+)
	(17)  Project			 Proj	   8c/9a on the steep roof right of Soultaker ... a line for
	                                           the next generations
Domi after the first move of Ehrlich Lump, supervised by my cousin Vanessa
The beloved Fuchstein
The awesome traverse fox chase, from 10 am it's in the shade

  
Sector Soultaker, in the shade till 5 pm. Sometimes with a fresh cold
wind on hot summer days.


KOTLET

The Kotlet has its name cause it looks like a piece of meat.
It is just above the Fuchsstein and has two excellent lines.
Kotlet itself is a deluxe slab 6a and Big Steak is a wonderful
Arete. 
      KOTLET BOULDER 
    
      Character: Gneiss, Arete n Slab
      
      Number:    5 Lines
      Exposion:  mostly afternoon sun
      
      Best:      Kotlet     6a 
                 Big Steak  6c 
      
      
      Pics: 
	  Up L:   Domi styling Steak 
      	  Up R:   Barti desperate on Kotlet   
          Down L: Jude jugging on big Steak
		     

	****** Kotelette ******************************************************************

        Chicken Curry		 6c      Go as low as your table manners ;) 
	Big Steak           	 6c   	 Climb the whole arete and mantle 
					 when you get the perfect hold
	Steak             	 6c      mantle in the middle of the arete
	Kotlet            	 6a 	 classic slab, easier top over crimps to the left 
	Kotlet sitstart          6b 	 if you like meat 
	Bratwurst         	 6b-c    Somehow weird, but in the end you get the sausage 
	Zwoei a            	 5  	 Not as easy as you think 


MOLOTOV

Molotov is just right in front of the Fuchststein. As you can see
you can spend all day between this three blocs.
This Block is like the Band Molotov. Full of fun, it has some funky
lines. Then some serious social critics and a lot of punk rock
as well. Read between the lines, read between the holds. The truth
lies there ... in between i mean ... oh well, just enjoy yourself.
      MOLOTOV 
    
      Character: Gneiss, Slabs, funks 
      
      Number:    12 Lines
      Exposion:  mostly in the sun all day 
      
      Best:      Puto 6c 
                 El Salto 7a-c
      
      Pics: 
	  U L:  Domi, mista style in Puto 
      	  U R:  Barti on molotov traverse 
          D L:  Dave on getting the kick 
		of el salto
		     

	****** Molotov ************************************************************

	0-T                       	 7a+ 	same start as puto, try to mantle 
						over the left side of the arete.
	Puto                      	 6c	complicated foot hook at start, 
						then swing :) 
	El Salto                  	 7a-c	2 moves to jump. funky .. if there 
						was a sitstart  
	Molotov                   	 6c     That is the traverse. Many many many 
						variations end wherever
	El Poder                  	 5c      
	Dame                      	 6a  
	Latino                    	 6b  
	Piolin                    	 5a  
	Secreto                   	 4c  
	Sin Calzetin              	 4   
	Boca de Vaca              	 5b+ 
	Frijolero                 	 7a+	one mover ... try it when you are bored 

AMEISI

A Ameisi is an ant. This is kind of the the highball bloc. It has a superb slab on
one side and some crazy crazy highballs on the other. Matthias Trottman and Dave
Gisler had the balls to do the first ascent of this cool arete. They were to humble
to give it a grade and a name. But this line is a majesty, so it is called Queen
of the Ants. And there are 3 new High balls on it of the same quality.
There are still the hardest high balls to do ... grab a box of balls next time
you come here. You will need them
  AMEISI 
  
    Character: High Balls, 
    
    Number:    12 Lines
    Exposion:  all 
    
    Best:    Antz      6a
             Bine Maya 7a
             Queen     7b 
    
    Pics: 
        U L: humble the nose 
     * 	U R: Bine Maya  
     *  D L: Annina Atomica
        D R: Antz 


     * pics by tabea schwab  

	****** Ameisi **************************************************************
	Queen of Ants			 7b	HIGH BALL FA by Dave Gisler, Matthias Trottman,
						So high so high
	Bine Maya			 7a	HIGH BALL FA by Sebi Huber and Tabea Schwab
						fucking scary
	Sch 		 	    	 6-7? 	FA by Dave, Matti n 
     						Stuart Partridge (stuey 8some)
	8some				 7a/b   dyno from small crimp to 
						thumb undercling
        Nosesome			 7a+    Start on 8some and left up the antz nose.
                                                Big moves on big holds and 3 heelhooks
	antz Nose               	 7a 	sit start under the prow. 
						patch your way up 
	Pipicacahuets             	 6b+/7a Start like Antz. do it static or
						the 2 hand dyno, which looks 
						better :) 
	Antz                      	 6a     First line on this bloc
	Fugazi                    	 6b+    weird sitstart, stand is better 
	Hormigaz                  	 6b+    even more weird
	Fourmiz                   	 5b  
	formica bombastica		 6c	Morpho HIGH BALL FA by Sebi Huber
	formica atomica			 6a     HIGH BALL
        antz trail			 6c     FA by Rene, trav from formica atomica
                                                and join topout of Antz nose



PIXIES

Walk a bit down from the Ameisi block and you will bump into the Pixies.
The Pixies are one of my favorite Bands, so they deserve a whole Block.
This Block looks tiny when you get to it. But once you are on it, you see 
the deepness of the lines. Just like the band, the beauty lies in the 
secret of knowing how to see the beauty. Once you know how to look at 
it a whole new world is ready to be climbed.  
      PIXIES 
    
      Character: Gneiss, funky 
      
      Number:    10 Lines
      Exposion:  mostly sun 
      
      Best:      Rock Music 6b+
		 Canonball  7a+  
     
      Pics:  
	  U L: two muscles no brain 
      	  U R: dirty minds need clean holds 
          D L: domi canon the balls 
		     

	****** Pixies *****************************************************
	Hey                       	 6c  
	Planet of Sounds          	 7b     Low start underneath the bloc
	                                        (arrow at the height of your face)
					        better on cold days
	Where is my mind          	 7c/+ 	FA and only ascent by Dave Gisler
						... haaard man, just hard
						Low start underneath the bloc
						(arrow at the height of your face)
	Los Angelis               	 6b+ 
	Is she weird              	 7a 	so weird, she could be a woman 
	Bossa Nova                	 6b  
	Rock Music                	 6b+ 
	Canonball                 	 7a+	FA Dominik Seitz, so long ... long man 
	Havalina                  	 5c  
	Hang Wire                 	 6a  



NILPFERD

The Nilpferd bloc lies close to the river underneath the staefeli restaurant.
The whole summer of 2003 i did not go to explore that boulder until Dave Gisler
and Matthias Trottmann came to find out a way up this magic line. It is pretty
much slapping up your way on the back of a hypopotamous. Don't ask me why i
know this 
      NILPFERD 
    
      Character: Gneiss, Steep and Prow 
      
      Number:    2 Lines
      Exposion:  late afternoon sun
      
      Best:      Nilpferd   7c 
      
      Pics: 
	  Up L:   Matt chilling in Nilpferd 
      	  Up R:   Matt slapping the bitch
          Down L: Dave walking on Nilpferd 
		     

	****** Nilpferd **********************
	Nilpferd                  	 7c/+	What a wonderful climb! FA by Dave Gisler 
						(he thinks it's 7b+, try it out) 
	Nil rechts                	 proj 
	Nil quer rechts           	 proj 


FRAUENBLOCK

This one is just opposite of Nilpferd on the same side of the river 
as the restaurant Staefeli.
The Frauenblock has its name from one of the first Schaffhauser
Sessions. The first line was put up by the brave bunch of girls that
day. Yes, you are right. GIRLS! They are everywhere ... and ... they
are wild. WILD. if you don't believe it, come and see. They will kick
your ass, cause they are real bad ass hard core climber girls. 

      FRAUENBLOCK 
    
      Character: Gneiss, really small crimps 
      
      Number:    2 Lines
      Exposion:  early morning sun 
      
      Best: 	 Frauenfeind 8a
	    	 Girlfight   6b 
      
      Pics: 
	  U L: Annina doing the Girlfight * 
      	  U R: Dave on Frauenfeind Movie * 
          D L: Chris checking the crux on Frauenfluesterer
		     
* pic/video by Sebi Huber

        ****** Frauenblock ************************************************************

        Girlfight                        5c/6a      
        Frauenfight                      6b        Standstart to the arete. 
        Frauenfluesterer                 Proj      Sitstart like Frauenfeind but go to the
        					   right towards that big hold on the arete 
                                                   Standstart: (dyno to the big hold) 7b  
        Frauenfeind                      8a	   The floodings provided a real sitstart 
					           FA by Dave Gisler 
        Frauenfreund                     Proj 
        Frauenversteher                  MegaProj  The one who understands woman 
        Frauenschwarm                    6b  
        Der mutige Charmeur              5c  
        Elektra                          ?
        Wonder Women

	****** Rutschbahn **********************
	degres glissants          	 5?  	FA by Brice




HAARNADEL


Close to the river and on a sharp turn on the steep part
just underneath the restaurant Staefeli you will
find an arete with a funny mantle and a high ball.
Dave Gisler and Sebi Huber have been working on
the highball 
      HAARNADEL 
    
      Character: Gneiss, High 
      
      Number:    3 Lines
      Exposion:  early morning sun 
      
      Best:      highball project   
      
      Pic: Sebi and Dave working in Neuland 
		     
	****** Haarnadel **********************************************
	Kante                     	 Proj 
	Mantel of Arete           	 7a+	Standstart to the Arete  
	Highball			 Proj   Lots of Pads should do 


BANDS BLOC

When you come from the restaurant Alpenroesli there will be a very
steep bit. Just before that 40m to the right you will find the
biig black massive bloc. 
This bloc has history. It had the largest number on problems, but the
floodings in august 2005 ripped off 2m soil from the riverside of the
bloc. 11 problems have become High high balls. And i mean high and i
mean balls. Cause that is what you need now to climb these lines.
So far we climbed only 3 of the old lines and they became fair a bit
harder. 
The problem is that the river and the big rocks make the landing really
hard to protect which result into more static climbing which makes it
harder to climb 

      BANDS BLOC 
    
      Character: Gneiss, crimpy shit and 
		 slopey highballs 
      
      Number:    12 Lines and some projects
      Exposion:  mostly afternoon sun
      
      Best:      Notwist 7a
		 Smash Mouth 8a 
      
      Pics: 
	  U L: Domi on the funky mantle of 
	       notwist 
      	  U R: Chris T rising into smashmouth  
          D L: Dave crimping the uncrimpable 
	       on smashmouth 
		     

	****** Bands Block ***********************************************************************

	Fettes Brot               	 3b 	 how cool ist that one :) 
	The Doors                 	 6a  
	Slayer(highball)          	 6a 	 FA Martin and Marc. jump to big holds.
						 underneath is the project wall with futuristic
						 lines.
	Notwist                   	 7a 	 classic, crimps to mantle. FA Dominik Seitz 
	Radiohead (stand)         	 7a+ 
	Radiohead                 	 7b+ 	 don't do it on the sun, cause it will peel
						 your skin off
	Tricky		           	 7c+     one move wonder. lot's of coordination. 
						 crimpy and painful. Not sexy at all	
	Tricky Sitstart                	 Proj    crimpier and more painful 8b? 
	Nomis                     	 7b	 route grade, cause endurance. FA
						 Simon Wandeler 
	Moloko                    	 6c/7a 	 The first problem on the bands block, now first
						 hard move from sloper undercling L and crimp R 
	Morcheeba                 	 7a/b	 start on sharp small side crimp L and pinch R
						 Pull up to place a left hook. Grab left crimp 
						 and cut loose to place right hook ... and then 
						 what? :) 
	Smash Mouth			 8a      High ball to desperate mantle. Bring lots of
						 pads and even more good friends. Will never be 
						 repeated i guess
        Sitstart Smash			 8c?     oh man ... i want to see who can climb that ...
	Riders on the Storm	  	 7a      On the complete right. Jumpstart if you are 
						 short. Get a ride on the capricorn. Standing up 
						 from it is the crux. 
						 FA by Matthias Trottman and Lukas Boller

FUSSBALL

This bloc is between Bands and Downunder on the right side
of the road when you walk upwards.
If you ever wanted to test the technique of your feet then
this is your bloc. All the boulders on the slab side should
be possible without using the hands. Unless you do maradona
then you are alowed to use the hand of god.
        FUSSBALL 
    
        Character: Gneiss, Slab 
        
        Number:    8 Lines
        Exposion:  late afternoon sun

	Pic: I have no pic of this bloc.
	     So i let Matt and Jude 
	     entertain you.
		     

	****** Fussball **********************
	beckham                   	 6c  
	Ronaldo                   	 6b/c  
	Platini                   	 5  
	Maradona                  	 5   
	Pele                      	 5   
	Ronaldinho                	 5   
	Flanke                    	 4  
        No Hands		         No Hands! 




DOWNUNDER

When you walk 5min from the restaurant Alpenroesli towards Staefeli you will see that
bloc 30m on the left side of the road.
In autumn 2003 things were set for a trip around the world. The destinations were 
New Zealand and Australia. So we had a theme for this block. It is a good bloc
to get you body into operational conditions before you go to the bands bloc.
But it is a great bloc in itself.  
      DOWNUNDER 
    
      Character: Gneiss, Arete 
      
      Number:    11 Lines
      Exposion:  late afternoon to never sun 
      
      Best:      New Zealand 6c 
      
      Pic: A chilled november day on New Zealand 
          
		     

	****** DownUnder ****************************************************
	All Blacks                	 6c  
	Australia                 	 6c  
	Dingo                     	 6a  
	Jimothy				 6c	 Low Traverse from Newzealand
						 to Australia :)
        New Zealand               	 6c	 The obvious arete from right
						 to left
	Tasmania                  	 5a  
	-4 Grad C                 	 5b  
	Fiji                      	 5c  
	Kiwi                      	 5c  
	Koala                     	 5b  
	Forsters                  	 4   
	XXXX                      	 3   

	****** Treibholz **********************
	Treibholz                 	 6b+	FA by Martin and Marc 
	Rundholz                  	 5b  	FA by Martin and Marc
	Kielholen                 	 5a  	FA by Martin and Marc



DAECHLI

Update Summer 2010: The creek next to the bloc grew big and brought so much gravel
that most lines lost their sitstart ... hopefully next summer the same creek will
flood the gravel away :)
Just opposite of Downunder on the other side of the river.
The Floodings just missed this small roof. The roof gives you the possibility
to so funky moves. I feel always so uncoordinated here.
      DAECHLI 
    
      Character: Gneiss, Small Roof 
      
      Number:    7 Lines
      Exposion:  morning sun 
      
      Best:      Cavage   7a+
      
      Pics: 
	  U L: xxx 
      	  U R: xxx 
          D L: xxx 
		     

	****** Daechli **********************
	Plantage                  	 6b+ 
	Sabotage                         (summer 2010 -- sitstart not possible any more) 
	Stoneage grad             	 (summer 2010 -- sitstart not possible any more)  
	Stoneage links            	 (summer 2010 -- sitstart not possible any more)  
	Trickage                  	 (summer 2010 -- sitstart not possible any more) 
	Cavage                    	 7a+	FA Martin Meier and Marc from 2strong.ch 
                                             still kind of possible, but sitstart not the same...
	X-A                       	 6b  
        Plantage 360                     7b     FA Rene Schweizer. All around the block
                                                starting on Plantage

	Just 1                    	 6b  
	Just 4                    	 5c  




HOW TO GET THERE

      Find somebody who tells you how to get to Engelberg. (Hint: 36Km south
      of Lucerne)
      Once in Engelberg find another one who tells you where the Fuerenbahn
      is. That is a cablecar in the end of the valley.
      You ll have to pay 5 SFr. to go up to the parking 2 km further and
      up the hill. From the parking you are not far from the first block.
      the first one is the Bruendler. See the minimalistic maps
      below. Hope you use them. If not, you might get lost in
      the beauty of this valley full of alpine flowers, glaciers, rivers
      and gorgeous girls (and boys if you are a girl :)

      PUBLIC TRANSPORT: Train to Engelberg from Lucerne. Depending on
      the season there is a free bus to the Fuerenbahn. From there its
      a 20min walk to the parking. Or use a taxi. Or if you like to
      get worked out first, take a bike onto the train. That is my
      favorite way to go bouldering in Engelberg.

SLEEP & FOOD

You can sleep in the middle of the boulder area from 18 SFr. a night. Check www.staefeli.ch for more information. They have their own cheese, too. So be gentle to the goats around the blocs :)

Overview

Parking Teil

Staefeli-teil

How to use this topo ...


      You will find little white arrows on the boulders and the names
      of the lines. The arrow is more or less on the hight of the head.
      So you can find out if it is a sit or a standstart.
      But of course it is not always like that. Just do it the way you
      like the most. You might find much better lines inbetween the
      arrows. 
      
      

Grades ...

      As everybody knows: Grades don't really exist. They are just 
      a subjective opinion of how hard a line is.
      I graded all the lines cause i know everyone loves to try lines
      that are graded :) It is just a game.

      So keep in mind, this topo is just my personal list of how
      difficult the lines feel to me when i compare them one to another.
      And ... surprise, that changes every year. So visit this page
      from time to time to see how my perception of the lines changed. 
      
      So don't worry when you climb a line that says 7a and you feel
      it's 6c or 7b. Some lines or our perception about them have sometimes
      a bigger sigma in their gaussian distribution than others. Don't you agree?
      

   

more pics and topo info of engelberg climb2surf.com - when barti is not in engelberg visit the facebook group to upload pics and read comments about this crag