-- last change, 30th of aug 2012, albert barti wuersch (friedbikins AT gmail.com) (c) 2003 - 2012
Summer 2011: Rene Schweizer and Raphi Bachmann developped 50 new lines
in the forgotten sector 'Halfpipe'. It's about 15 min up the hill from
sector Fuchsstein and includes 5 blocs. Topo Sector Halfpipe
Welcome to the boulder guide to the blocs in the valley of Engelberg in Central
Switzerland. See bottom of the page on how to get there.
It is a small area with about 170 lines on more than 15 blocs. The first Bloc is right
above the parking. It has some of the best lines of the area. For the other blocs you have to
walk 20 - 40 min on easy trails surrounded by glacier and mountain rivers scenery.
The difficulties of the lines are between 4a and 8b and some projects of course.
But most of the lines are between 5c and 7a
Best season is from october till december. Then it gets sticky as hell. Spring is sometimes
not too bad but maybe you have to dodge some avalanches. Summer is good on overcast days.
Most problems face the sun.
I gonna give you a little tour on the spot, so you get an impression what the climbing
looks like and which are in my view the best lines.
At the end you'll find a MAP with an overview of all the blocs, some thoughts about
the grading and some links contact info.
This bloc is right above the parking. You can spend easy the whole afternoon there.
The Bloc at Bruendler has the first ever developped boulder in Engelberg. It was in spring
2003 when I called Simon Wandeler to check out this bloc. We spent 5 hours until we
figured out the moves to the most obvious line on this bloc. We thought it was going
to be a 6a and felt like loosers ... Looser Line was born.
BRUENDLER BLOC
Character: Limestone, small crimps
Number: 6 Lines
Exposion: Never Sun
Best: Kiana 8a+
Get Down 7c+
Walk: 3 min from the car parking
Pics: U L: Domi action in looser line
U R: Chris on the swing of kiana
D L: Dave ready to fly on kiana
************* Bruendler *****************************************************
Alpaeroesli 6a+ The obvious arete from left to right. Slopers on
limestone to big holds
Maenteli 6a excellent mantle if you don't use the crimps
only the slopers
Montags Maler 7b+ nice jump from crimps to pocket, but super contrived :(
check out video below.
Looser Line 7c find out where to place your butt. this is a classic
rhythm boulder, once you find it, its not too hard.
FA Simon Wandeler
Get Down 7c+ deep start to Looser Line. 3 more moves, but you get
better into rhythm.
Vivai Proj Sitstart on Get Down then to the right and topout
into crux of Kiana.
Kiana 8a+ smaller crimps and longer moves than looser line.
First it seems impossible, then it seems close,
then so impossible again :)
FA Dave Gisler
Kiana (Stand) 7b-8a Kind of ungradable. Very technical and powerful 1 mover.
Tiny holds, to a not really ok hold (for me) ... sometimes
it feels impossible and then it feels easy again.
FA Dave Gisler
Sisters Line 8a Morpho! Sit Start on Kiana and then go left into
Loosers line
FA Dave Gisler
Killer Kante 6b+/c Sooo friction dependent. There is a long traverse
from way down, too.
Low Traverse Proj I have no clue how
Beta for the contrived line Montags Maler:
But hey, do it just the way that is most fun!
Beta for Looser Line
AGENT ORANGE SECTOR
We always knew there were blocs in the woods on the other side of the river, but no-one
had the courage to go and conquer them. Dave Gisler finally did what had to be done.
3 fresh blocs with over 10 lines all close together are ready for a great warm up and
burn out. From the Bruendler parking walk to the Corner block and cross the bridge
to the right. Then turn right again and go over the next bridge and go down the
trail to the point where the barbed wire ends (on the right side of the trail) and
go there into the forest (about 30-40m) and you'll find the Agent Orange block.
If you a bit further towards the River, you'll find the 'Hoher Zwerg' a big
block with no real line but tousands of combinations ... excellent to get
start the day.
And if you walk a bit further down the river, you'll find two excellent lines
mitake and mifune!
AGENT ORANGE SECTOR
Character: Gneiss
Number: 10+ Lines
Exposion: in the forest
Best: Agent Orange 7b+
Walk: 10 min from the car parking
Pics: U L: Tabea checking 'Mooslos'
U R: Hoher Zwerg front
D L: Mitake and Mifune
************* Agent Orange *****************************************************
Orange Mantle (a) 6c Mantle straight up
Agent Orange (b) 7b+ short intensive traverse with a hard crux move
FA Dave Gisler
DDT (c) 7a low start on big hold and straight up
Mooslos (d) 7a+ same start and go to the right
************* Hoher Zwerg ****************************************************
a lot of lines around 7a and some hard projects, too.
Have fun like a first ascender and create your own lines :)
************* Mitake & Mifune ****************************************************
Mitake 7a+ technical on small river washed crimps
Mifune 6c+ the arete, excellent climb, too
CORNER BLOC
This was a late discovery. In summer it's a bit dense to get there. It is not far
from the Bruendler Bloc. From the parking you can walk up 500m the path until you see
on your right side a bridge. On the first pic you see the bridge and path in the
background of the corner block. During all summer it's in the bush and too hot.
November / March it's the best to boulder on it.
CORNER BLOC
Character: Gneiss, Funky Vertical
Number: 10 Lines
Exposion: No sun in the bush
Best: all
Pics:
U L: block and bridge
U R: just 4 the colour
D L: when u look south
****** Corner Block *************************************************************
Alles ist erlaubt 5c
With 6b If you use the Block of 'alles ist erlaubt'
or without you 6c without the block
Tango 5c dance left, right, left, right :)
Umarm mich 5c hug is the trick
Schnabel Kraft 6b pinch it hard
Surprise 6a surprisingly easy with the beta
the mess we're in 6b watch the rock, the tree and the lykon.
sandflies 7a find your way with both corners
proj ?
FUCHS STEIN
The Fuchs Stein is on the other end of the area. It is just the biggest block
you can see from the restaurant Staefeli. 'Ehrlich Lump' is the first line
done on this block. It is a looong line, starting on almost roof climbing and
ending on slopey crimps. Rene and Tabea found an easy end to it (cause they
are smarter), so it's named der gschiid lump. I still prefer my more difficult
and now obviously contrived way :)
On 'Lieblingslaster Eitelkeit' i needed 4 months to find a beta to it.
I was several times told that there is no line there, but it
turned out to be one of the most beautiful lines with the funkiest beta.
In 2006 David Noden put up Effervescent Elephant which was 8a when he did it. But
when i tried it i cleand the lycon and moss away cause i just could not hold
this stuff. It is somehow easier now ... probably 7b+ or so ... It makes
a huge difference when you brush very very slopey mossy slopers :)
In 2010 Rene Schweizer brought back the endurance to bouldering and put up a couple
of pumpy lines to fuchsstein.
In 2012 Adam Ondra payed a visit to the Fuchsstein and showed me that all moves
are possible on some projects. Now we have it all on one bloc :)
FUCHS STEIN BOULDER
Character: Gneiss, slopey and crimpy
Number: 15 climbed Lines, 3 projects
Exposion: all expositions
Best: E. Elephant 7b+
Eitelkeit 7c+
Gschiid Lump 7a+
Ride the tide 7c
Fox chase 6b+
Pics:
Up L: Domi on the ehrlich Lump
Up R: Fred flashing Eitelkeit
Down L: Chris kicks ass in Eitelkeit
****** Fuchsstein ****************************************************************************
Effervescent Elephant 7b+ Start big hold, crimp left and big move to slopers
FA by David Noden from Wales
Project Proj 8b/c Start on Eitelkeit and end on Effervescent Elephant
Eitelkeit geht weiter 7a Start where Eitelkeit ends. Big move to slopey arete
and bring your feet around that arete
(1) Lieblingslaster Eitelkeit 7c/+ Classic! Start lying down underneath the prow.
the heels are going to heal your soul
(2a) Cows in the Bikinis 8a Start ehrlich lump, go left around the prow into the
last moves of Eitelkeit. FA by Adam Ondra
(2) Project Proj 8b/c Start ehrlich lump, go left and up
(3) Naked in the Rain 7c+ Start ehrlich lump, go straight up to big hold
for both hands (High Ball)
Naked in the Brain Proj Top out after 'Naked in the Rain' (Solo)
(4a) Der nackte Lump 7a+ start like ehrlich Lump and end on naked in the Rain
(4) Der ehrlich Lump 7b+ Steep 6c to 7a+ slab. So it is more a short
route (~ 14 moves) than a boulder. Since there is
now an easier way to the left (Der gschiid Lump),
this line has become 'contrived'. But hey, it is
still the nicer line :)
(4b) Der gschiid Lump 7a+ FA Stefan Lustenberger. Same as ehrlich Lump, but
avoid the crux move on the bad slopers and take a
(4c) Ride the Tide 7c FA by Rene Schweizer. Start on ehrlich Lump and
start to traverse when you reach the sloper. The
whole thing ends up on the highball 'easy ticks'
40 moves! It is the only line that has a sit start
sharp crimp up left (Rene and Tabeas way)
(5) Zwischen Lump und Held Proj Yet another playground ...
(6) Der falsch Held 7b+ Crimpy shit, same finish as 'ehrlich lump'
(7) Chipp n Tales 7b Another crimpy shit with a nice mantle to finish
and a real top out.
(8) Easy Ticks 6c FA by Sebi Huber, super nice Highball and the
first line that tops out the fuchsstein :)
(8a) Easy Ticks for easy chicks Proj Sit start to easy ticks
(9) Foxy Lady 7a work up you way through the slopey groove. another
topout on the fuchsstein
(10) Lucky Looser 6a right of the easiest way to the top of the fuchsstein
excellent dyno!!!
(11) Fox chase 6b+ trav from Soultaker to the left to the beginning of
lucky looser
(12) Soulmate 7a+ Shouldery first move on right crimp, then campus board
fest!
(13) Seelenwaermer 7a+ Soultaker but no eliminates, follow the big holds to
the end of Soultaker. Last move with the right hand to the upper
right hold is the crux.
(14) Soultaker Proj 8a/b Hard first move to big hold and then keep low.
Before the hold broke it was a 7c by Rene Schweizer Now
way harder ...
(15) Soultaker Stand 7b+ Start with 2 crimps. Your right deltoid muscle will be
very sore the next day :). Finish with right hand on upper
right jug that is marked with a little man. left hand on the left
little dude on the big sloper.
(16) Soulmaker 7a Just the hard first move of Soultaker and then top out
as soon as you can. Variation: start both hands on the
right hold (7a+)
(17) Project Proj 8c/9a on the steep roof right of Soultaker ... a line for
the next generations
Domi after the first move of Ehrlich Lump, supervised by my cousin Vanessa
The beloved Fuchstein
The awesome traverse fox chase, from 10 am it's in the shade
Sector Soultaker, in the shade till 5 pm. Sometimes with a fresh cold
wind on hot summer days.
KOTLET
The Kotlet has its name cause it looks like a piece of meat.
It is just above the Fuchsstein and has two excellent lines.
Kotlet itself is a deluxe slab 6a and Big Steak is a wonderful
Arete.
KOTLET BOULDER
Character: Gneiss, Arete n Slab
Number: 5 Lines
Exposion: mostly afternoon sun
Best: Kotlet 6a
Big Steak 6c
Pics:
Up L: Domi styling Steak
Up R: Barti desperate on Kotlet
Down L: Jude jugging on big Steak
****** Kotelette ******************************************************************
Chicken Curry 6c Go as low as your table manners ;)
Big Steak 6c Climb the whole arete and mantle
when you get the perfect hold
Steak 6c mantle in the middle of the arete
Kotlet 6a classic slab, easier top over crimps to the left
Kotlet sitstart 6b if you like meat
Bratwurst 6b-c Somehow weird, but in the end you get the sausage
Zwoei a 5 Not as easy as you think
MOLOTOV
Molotov is just right in front of the Fuchststein. As you can see
you can spend all day between this three blocs.
This Block is like the Band Molotov. Full of fun, it has some funky
lines. Then some serious social critics and a lot of punk rock
as well. Read between the lines, read between the holds. The truth
lies there ... in between i mean ... oh well, just enjoy yourself.
MOLOTOV
Character: Gneiss, Slabs, funks
Number: 12 Lines
Exposion: mostly in the sun all day
Best: Puto 6c
El Salto 7a-c
Pics:
U L: Domi, mista style in Puto
U R: Barti on molotov traverse
D L: Dave on getting the kick
of el salto
****** Molotov ************************************************************
0-T 7a+ same start as puto, try to mantle
over the left side of the arete.
Puto 6c complicated foot hook at start,
then swing :)
El Salto 7a-c 2 moves to jump. funky .. if there
was a sitstart
Molotov 6c That is the traverse. Many many many
variations end wherever
El Poder 5c
Dame 6a
Latino 6b
Piolin 5a
Secreto 4c
Sin Calzetin 4
Boca de Vaca 5b+
Frijolero 7a+ one mover ... try it when you are bored
AMEISI
A Ameisi is an ant. This is kind of the the highball bloc. It has a superb slab on
one side and some crazy crazy highballs on the other. Matthias Trottman and Dave
Gisler had the balls to do the first ascent of this cool arete. They were to humble
to give it a grade and a name. But this line is a majesty, so it is called Queen
of the Ants. And there are 3 new High balls on it of the same quality.
There are still the hardest high balls to do ... grab a box of balls next time
you come here. You will need them
AMEISI
Character: High Balls,
Number: 12 Lines
Exposion: all
Best: Antz 6a
Bine Maya 7a
Queen 7b
Pics:
U L: humble the nose
* U R: Bine Maya
* D L: Annina Atomica
D R: Antz
* pics by tabea schwab
****** Ameisi **************************************************************
Queen of Ants 7b HIGH BALL FA by Dave Gisler, Matthias Trottman,
So high so high
Bine Maya 7a HIGH BALL FA by Sebi Huber and Tabea Schwab
fucking scary
Sch 6-7? FA by Dave, Matti n
Stuart Partridge (stuey 8some)
8some 7a/b dyno from small crimp to
thumb undercling
Nosesome 7a+ Start on 8some and left up the antz nose.
Big moves on big holds and 3 heelhooks
antz Nose 7a sit start under the prow.
patch your way up
Pipicacahuets 6b+/7a Start like Antz. do it static or
the 2 hand dyno, which looks
better :)
Antz 6a First line on this bloc
Fugazi 6b+ weird sitstart, stand is better
Hormigaz 6b+ even more weird
Fourmiz 5b
formica bombastica 6c Morpho HIGH BALL FA by Sebi Huber
formica atomica 6a HIGH BALL
antz trail 6c FA by Rene, trav from formica atomica
and join topout of Antz nose
PIXIES
Walk a bit down from the Ameisi block and you will bump into the Pixies.
The Pixies are one of my favorite Bands, so they deserve a whole Block.
This Block looks tiny when you get to it. But once you are on it, you see
the deepness of the lines. Just like the band, the beauty lies in the
secret of knowing how to see the beauty. Once you know how to look at
it a whole new world is ready to be climbed.
PIXIES
Character: Gneiss, funky
Number: 10 Lines
Exposion: mostly sun
Best: Rock Music 6b+
Canonball 7a+
Pics:
U L: two muscles no brain
U R: dirty minds need clean holds
D L: domi canon the balls
****** Pixies *****************************************************
Hey 6c
Planet of Sounds 7b Low start underneath the bloc
(arrow at the height of your face)
better on cold days
Where is my mind 7c/+ FA and only ascent by Dave Gisler
... haaard man, just hard
Low start underneath the bloc
(arrow at the height of your face)
Los Angelis 6b+
Is she weird 7a so weird, she could be a woman
Bossa Nova 6b
Rock Music 6b+
Canonball 7a+ FA Dominik Seitz, so long ... long man
Havalina 5c
Hang Wire 6a
NILPFERD
The Nilpferd bloc lies close to the river underneath the staefeli restaurant.
The whole summer of 2003 i did not go to explore that boulder until Dave Gisler
and Matthias Trottmann came to find out a way up this magic line. It is pretty
much slapping up your way on the back of a hypopotamous. Don't ask me why i
know this
NILPFERD
Character: Gneiss, Steep and Prow
Number: 2 Lines
Exposion: late afternoon sun
Best: Nilpferd 7c
Pics:
Up L: Matt chilling in Nilpferd
Up R: Matt slapping the bitch
Down L: Dave walking on Nilpferd
****** Nilpferd **********************
Nilpferd 7c/+ What a wonderful climb! FA by Dave Gisler
(he thinks it's 7b+, try it out)
Nil rechts proj
Nil quer rechts proj
FRAUENBLOCK
This one is just opposite of Nilpferd on the same side of the river
as the restaurant Staefeli.
The Frauenblock has its name from one of the first Schaffhauser
Sessions. The first line was put up by the brave bunch of girls that
day. Yes, you are right. GIRLS! They are everywhere ... and ... they
are wild. WILD. if you don't believe it, come and see. They will kick
your ass, cause they are real bad ass hard core climber girls.
FRAUENBLOCK
Character: Gneiss, really small crimps
Number: 2 Lines
Exposion: early morning sun
Best: Frauenfeind 8a
Girlfight 6b
Pics:
U L: Annina doing the Girlfight *
U R: Dave on Frauenfeind Movie *
D L: Chris checking the crux on Frauenfluesterer
****** Frauenblock ************************************************************
Girlfight 5c/6a
Frauenfight 6b Standstart to the arete.
Frauenfluesterer Proj Sitstart like Frauenfeind but go to the
right towards that big hold on the arete
Standstart: (dyno to the big hold) 7b
Frauenfeind 8a The floodings provided a real sitstart
FA by Dave Gisler
Frauenfreund Proj
Frauenversteher MegaProj The one who understands woman
Frauenschwarm 6b
Der mutige Charmeur 5c
Elektra ?
Wonder Women
****** Rutschbahn **********************
degres glissants 5? FA by Brice
HAARNADEL
Close to the river and on a sharp turn on the steep part
just underneath the restaurant Staefeli you will
find an arete with a funny mantle and a high ball.
Dave Gisler and Sebi Huber have been working on
the highball
HAARNADEL
Character: Gneiss, High
Number: 3 Lines
Exposion: early morning sun
Best: highball project
Pic: Sebi and Dave working in Neuland
****** Haarnadel **********************************************
Kante Proj
Mantel of Arete 7a+ Standstart to the Arete
Highball Proj Lots of Pads should do
BANDS BLOC
When you come from the restaurant Alpenroesli there will be a very
steep bit. Just before that 40m to the right you will find the
biig black massive bloc.
This bloc has history. It had the largest number on problems, but the
floodings in august 2005 ripped off 2m soil from the riverside of the
bloc. 11 problems have become High high balls. And i mean high and i
mean balls. Cause that is what you need now to climb these lines.
So far we climbed only 3 of the old lines and they became fair a bit
harder.
The problem is that the river and the big rocks make the landing really
hard to protect which result into more static climbing which makes it
harder to climb
BANDS BLOC
Character: Gneiss, crimpy shit and
slopey highballs
Number: 12 Lines and some projects
Exposion: mostly afternoon sun
Best: Notwist 7a
Smash Mouth 8a
Pics:
U L: Domi on the funky mantle of
notwist
U R: Chris T rising into smashmouth
D L: Dave crimping the uncrimpable
on smashmouth
****** Bands Block ***********************************************************************
Fettes Brot 3b how cool ist that one :)
The Doors 6a
Slayer(highball) 6a FA Martin and Marc. jump to big holds.
underneath is the project wall with futuristic
lines.
Notwist 7a classic, crimps to mantle. FA Dominik Seitz
Radiohead (stand) 7a+
Radiohead 7b+ don't do it on the sun, cause it will peel
your skin off
Tricky 7c+ one move wonder. lot's of coordination.
crimpy and painful. Not sexy at all
Tricky Sitstart Proj crimpier and more painful 8b?
Nomis 7b route grade, cause endurance. FA
Simon Wandeler
Moloko 6c/7a The first problem on the bands block, now first
hard move from sloper undercling L and crimp R
Morcheeba 7a/b start on sharp small side crimp L and pinch R
Pull up to place a left hook. Grab left crimp
and cut loose to place right hook ... and then
what? :)
Smash Mouth 8a High ball to desperate mantle. Bring lots of
pads and even more good friends. Will never be
repeated i guess
Sitstart Smash 8c? oh man ... i want to see who can climb that ...
Riders on the Storm 7a On the complete right. Jumpstart if you are
short. Get a ride on the capricorn. Standing up
from it is the crux.
FA by Matthias Trottman and Lukas Boller
FUSSBALL
This bloc is between Bands and Downunder on the right side
of the road when you walk upwards.
If you ever wanted to test the technique of your feet then
this is your bloc. All the boulders on the slab side should
be possible without using the hands. Unless you do maradona
then you are alowed to use the hand of god.
FUSSBALL
Character: Gneiss, Slab
Number: 8 Lines
Exposion: late afternoon sun
Pic: I have no pic of this bloc.
So i let Matt and Jude
entertain you.
****** Fussball **********************
beckham 6c
Ronaldo 6b/c
Platini 5
Maradona 5
Pele 5
Ronaldinho 5
Flanke 4
No Hands No Hands!
DOWNUNDER
When you walk 5min from the restaurant Alpenroesli towards Staefeli you will see that
bloc 30m on the left side of the road.
In autumn 2003 things were set for a trip around the world. The destinations were
New Zealand and Australia. So we had a theme for this block. It is a good bloc
to get you body into operational conditions before you go to the bands bloc.
But it is a great bloc in itself.
DOWNUNDER
Character: Gneiss, Arete
Number: 11 Lines
Exposion: late afternoon to never sun
Best: New Zealand 6c
Pic: A chilled november day on New Zealand
****** DownUnder ****************************************************
All Blacks 6c
Australia 6c
Dingo 6a
Jimothy 6c Low Traverse from Newzealand
to Australia :)
New Zealand 6c The obvious arete from right
to left
Tasmania 5a
-4 Grad C 5b
Fiji 5c
Kiwi 5c
Koala 5b
Forsters 4
XXXX 3
****** Treibholz **********************
Treibholz 6b+ FA by Martin and Marc
Rundholz 5b FA by Martin and Marc
Kielholen 5a FA by Martin and Marc
DAECHLI
Update Summer 2010: The creek next to the bloc grew big and brought so much gravel
that most lines lost their sitstart ... hopefully next summer the same creek will
flood the gravel away :)
Just opposite of Downunder on the other side of the river.
The Floodings just missed this small roof. The roof gives you the possibility
to so funky moves. I feel always so uncoordinated here.
DAECHLI
Character: Gneiss, Small Roof
Number: 7 Lines
Exposion: morning sun
Best: Cavage 7a+
Pics:
U L: xxx
U R: xxx
D L: xxx
****** Daechli **********************
Plantage 6b+
Sabotage (summer 2010 -- sitstart not possible any more)
Stoneage grad (summer 2010 -- sitstart not possible any more)
Stoneage links (summer 2010 -- sitstart not possible any more)
Trickage (summer 2010 -- sitstart not possible any more)
Cavage 7a+ FA Martin Meier and Marc from 2strong.ch
still kind of possible, but sitstart not the same...
X-A 6b
Plantage 360 7b FA Rene Schweizer. All around the block
starting on Plantage
Just 1 6b
Just 4 5c
HOW TO GET THERE
Find somebody who tells you how to get to Engelberg. (Hint: 36Km south
of Lucerne)
Once in Engelberg find another one who tells you where the Fuerenbahn
is. That is a cablecar in the end of the valley.
You ll have to pay 5 SFr. to go up to the parking 2 km further and
up the hill. From the parking you are not far from the first block.
the first one is the Bruendler. See the minimalistic maps
below. Hope you use them. If not, you might get lost in
the beauty of this valley full of alpine flowers, glaciers, rivers
and gorgeous girls (and boys if you are a girl :)
PUBLIC TRANSPORT: Train to Engelberg from Lucerne. Depending on
the season there is a free bus to the Fuerenbahn. From there its
a 20min walk to the parking. Or use a taxi. Or if you like to
get worked out first, take a bike onto the train. That is my
favorite way to go bouldering in Engelberg.
SLEEP & FOOD
You can sleep in the middle of the boulder area from 18 SFr. a night.
Check www.staefeli.ch for more
information. They have their own cheese, too. So be gentle to the
goats around the blocs :)
Overview
Parking Teil
Staefeli-teil
How to use this topo ...
You will find little white arrows on the boulders and the names
of the lines. The arrow is more or less on the hight of the head.
So you can find out if it is a sit or a standstart.
But of course it is not always like that. Just do it the way you
like the most. You might find much better lines inbetween the
arrows.
Grades ...
As everybody knows: Grades don't really exist. They are just
a subjective opinion of how hard a line is.
I graded all the lines cause i know everyone loves to try lines
that are graded :) It is just a game.
So keep in mind, this topo is just my personal list of how
difficult the lines feel to me when i compare them one to another.
And ... surprise, that changes every year. So visit this page
from time to time to see how my perception of the lines changed.
So don't worry when you climb a line that says 7a and you feel
it's 6c or 7b. Some lines or our perception about them have sometimes
a bigger sigma in their gaussian distribution than others. Don't you agree?
Summer 2011: Rene Schweizer and Raphi Bachmann developped 50 new lines
in the forgotten sector 'Halfpipe'. It's about 15 min up the hill from
sector Fuchsstein and includes 5 blocs. Topo Sector Halfpipe
Welcome to the boulder guide to the blocs in the valley of Engelberg in Central
Switzerland. See bottom of the page on how to get there.
It is a small area with about 170 lines on more than 15 blocs. The first Bloc is right
above the parking. It has some of the best lines of the area. For the other blocs you have to
walk 20 - 40 min on easy trails surrounded by glacier and mountain rivers scenery.
The difficulties of the lines are between 4a and 8b and some projects of course.
But most of the lines are between 5c and 7a
Best season is from october till december. Then it gets sticky as hell. Spring is sometimes
not too bad but maybe you have to dodge some avalanches. Summer is good on overcast days.
Most problems face the sun.
I gonna give you a little tour on the spot, so you get an impression what the climbing
looks like and which are in my view the best lines.
At the end you'll find a MAP with an overview of all the blocs, some thoughts about
the grading and some links contact info.
